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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.